We met a man coming down the trail looking a bit haggard. He had a water bottle and shorts and long sleeves, not much else. Had previously seen him and companions at Phantom Ranch. They came down South Kaibab, we came longer down South Bright Angel.
We rounded one more switchback. Looked up at the snow, at the green trees above and the trail far below. She said that the ice crossings had really scared her. I said the same. And with that, we turned around at 12:40 pm, about 1 mile short and 1000 ft below our goal.
Another hour slog through the snow at least, with the chance of slip and fall? Add three hrs to trip? A mid-night return? An over-night stay at Phantom Ranch? We were traveling heavy enough for an overnight, but feared for the worry of small children and spouses. Time to give up for this trip, time to come home safe to loved ones.
Did I forget to mention it topped 80 degrees in the canyon by mid-afternoon?
We did 95% of rim2rim2rim...about 45 miles or so by best reckoning. We could have gone faster, could have lingered less, talked less, taken fewer pictures. And then we would have enjoyed it less. Running is a stress reliever, not a stress creator.
But the decision was not entirely our own...children and spouses waiting vs. our sense of adventure, tempered by safety. How badly stumbling at 21 hrs finish vs. 18 hrs. Some quick math told me we would be finishing in the dark...around 9 pm.
But the decision was not entirely our own...children and spouses waiting vs. our sense of adventure, tempered by safety. How badly stumbling at 21 hrs finish vs. 18 hrs. Some quick math told me we would be finishing in the dark...around 9 pm.
Not as talkative on the return trip. Staying within ourselves more, but still talkative. Stopped to filter water again at some of the ice crossings. Saw two women coming up trail out of Phantom Ranch. They had poles and crampons. While we clung on hands and knees to the ice and flowing water, one by one they boldly stepped past us on the precipice edge. D watched as one of the ladies lost her balance for a moment, flailed a bit over the precipice, and then recovered. They pushed on towards the north, we resumed our downhill jog to the south. Later D said that little dance was quite frightening.
All the water points were indeed shut off on the north rim. About one bottle of water, 20 ounces, for each of us for every hour. 18 x 20 oz = 360 oz....almost 3 gals of water. 24 lbs of water...and we were carrying 10 lbs of pack each. So we filtered water where we needed, filled bottles at Phantom Ranch.
We made Phantom Ranch about 4:30 pm, lingering for a bit as we used restrooms and reclaimed our stashed food packages from the rocks. The little store was closed at 4 pm, so it was water and our own supplies.We ran into the group of men who had turned also before reaching the north rim. They asked us if we had seen the third member of their party. We said no, we never passed him. They were a bit frantic, but eventually decided he must of climbed out on his own...3-4 hours of slogging without water resupply solo. Sunset was around 7 pm, with twilight lasting until 7:30. Afterwards, darkness and silence covered the valley.
Continued our all day ritual...constantly sipping water, stopping for food every hour, nibbling on food and water between. Four hours of climbing....non-stop. She wanted to go faster, faster up South Kaibab trail. D is strong. Interestingly, we never did see much of the spectacle, higher elevations of the south rim. We started and finished in the dark. Hands holding on the near cliff face, not really wanting to consider the consequences of a stumble or fall. Glad for the limited beam of the headlamp.
We came out around 9 pm, just as we were finishing the last of our water. I stumbled once or twice, growing tired. A mid-night return probably would have had more stumbles.
The right choice...to turn early? In hindsight...yes. We came with a plan, a plan to turn at a certain point regardless of distance. Snow and ice always possible during spring crossings. Shoe screws....no crampons or poles a deliberate choice. A deliberate compromise...trading traction for weight. Every ounce carried slowed us down. Probably carried twice the food and supplies....map, first aid, lighter, headlamps, space blankets...that we needed for a single day outing. But we came back un-hurt. Did not ever find out about the other hiker, the one who must have left alone. A night below freezing in the canyon would probably not be fatal, but would probably have been very un-comfortable for him.
It is damn hard to follow the plan, to turn short of a goal so close. But to do so is to be able to hike, run in the back country another day. Emergencies in the back country can be fatal. We could not push the envelop to close. A controlled race is one thing, an unsupported, unsanctioned and quite frankly discouraged hike another.
Learned things about my friend. Don't underestimate the strength and caution of the well conditioned female. Combined with the push of the male part of the duo, it is a good combination. Trust in the prep, trust in the training, but most of all trust in your friend. To do this alone is foolhardy. To do it well prepared and in company...exciting but probably not more dangerous than the car trip to the canyon itself.
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| Sunset panorama...South Kaibab Trail...about EL 3500 ft |
Namaste Danelle. Another day. More adventures await. Glad to have shared it with you. Your strength inspires.
-Larry



1 comments:
I enjoyed reading, Larry. Sounds like a memorable adventure. Thanks for sharing it. LB
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